by Andy Hui, Gloria Dou

If you live in Hong Kong, Lamma Island is a place you have definitely heard of. With its nice scenery and easy trails, it’s a popular destination for hikers. Situated off the southwest of Hong Kong Island and occupying an area of 13.55km2, Lamma Island is home to 6000-7000 Hong Kongers, and is the fourth biggest island in Hong Kong (after Lantau Island, Hong Kong Island and Chek Lap Kok).

Lamma Island goes by many names. Originally, Lamma Island was called Pok Liu Chau (舶寮洲 or 博寮洲). ‘Pok’ in Chinese means ‘big sailing ship’, and ‘Liu’ is a homophone of 獠(fiendish), a stereotypical description of foreign appearances by the early local residents. ‘Chau’ means ‘islet’. Although the exact origin of this name is unclear, many people speculate that it goes all the way back to the Tang Dynasty in China (around 1300 years ago). At that time, marine foreign trades were booming especially between China and Arabia, Persia, and India. Pok Liu Chau, located at the end of the Pearl River, was an essential docking and transfer place before ships entered Guangzhou. In the 15th century, Europeans already found the sea route to China through Pok Liu Chau. Among them, the Frangos (now Portuguese) were the most active. The phrase ‘Pok Liu’ was subsequently used to refer to the people engaged in foreign trading. With the opening up of China and the establishment of the container terminal in Hong Kong, Pok Liu Chau was eventually replaced by other ports and docking places. As the shape of the island resembles the Chinese character 丫(pronounced aa1 or ngaa1), people started calling this island ‘Lamma Island’ (南丫島, pronounced naam4 aa1 dou2), the ‘丫island’ or the ‘Y Island’ of the South.

Many local and foreign tourist guides refer to Lamma Island as a serene paradise with a rich cultural vibe. Taking a 30-minute boat ride from Central or Aberdeen Pier, one can enjoy a wonderful day with beaches, mountains, street food, artsy cafes, Chinese restaurants, western pubs, ancient temples, local and organic product shops, Lamma Power Station, BBQ, and a nice bowl of tofu pudding. Air pollution is not a concern here, as people get around on Lamma by bike or on foot.

Being on Lamma for a day, however, can be very different from living on Lamma for a year. Lamma Island is home to many School of English colleagues at HKU. While we are sure it is not the ‘llama’ that attracts them there, we are curious about their decisions to join this little community. We conducted an interview with two of them, Mr. Scott Daly and Dr. Jaspal Singh, to see what being a Lammaian is like.

Scott Daly: S

Jaspal Singh: J

1.     When did you move to Lamma Island?

S: August 2018

J: I moved here straight after coming to Hong Kong from Wales in September 2018.

2.     What are the reasons that led to your decision of moving to Lamma?

S: Just to get a decent place with nice surroundings for not-too-extortionate rent.

J: It has no cars and no franchise businesses. Instead you can find an abundance of trees, plants, animals, insects, beaches, jungles and mountains. Most humans who live here are lovely too.

3.     How would you describe Lamma (the place and the people)?

S: The place is surprisingly undeveloped and has some really beautiful spots, although with a power station and some issues with littering and sea pollution, it’s not exactly paradise island. It has plenty of characters like Nick the Book, Tony the Coffee Guy, the man who walks round with an iguana on his cowboy hat, and the woman who sneaks her two puppies onto the ferry every day.

J: It is a little, slightly unpolished, pearl in the South China Sea, right at the doorstep of one of the most intense metropolises of this world. The ferry is a blessing. It connects and disconnects you from the insanity of Hong Kong and gives you a chance to watch the waves, the other ships, the mountains and the skyline and just meditate for a moment or get chatting with other passengers. Lamma itself is just gorgeous and never brutal, always gentle and soft.

4.     How is Lamma different from where you lived before in Hong Kong or other countries?

S: I moved to the biggest city I’ve ever lived in and have somehow managed to end up in the smallest settlement I’ve ever lived. That’s all new.

J: I’ve always lived in cold countries of Europe, so coming here into the warm, humid jungle is really amazing. I have also lived in Delhi, India for a bit and sometimes some parts of Yung Shue Wan Main Road remind me of some neighbourhoods in Delhi. I feel healthier on Lamma than anywhere else I have lived before.

5.     Is there anything you find particularly difficult about living on Lamma?

S: As I said, I didn’t expect to end up living in a village when I came to Hong Kong. Village life has pros and cons. As a pro, for example, there are always friendly faces around, which is nice. As a con, for example, there are always friendly faces around, and sometimes you just want that big city anonymity. I think moving between HK Island and Lamma every couple of years would be a good way to live.

J: No, but I am currently healthy and young. For people with limited mobility it is surely not easy to climb the very steep hills on foot everyday.

6.     Could you describe one of your typical days on Lamma?

J: On weekends I usually wake up early and roam around my flat for a bit, doing everything, something and nothing. I then usually have coffee on my rooftop, which has a breath-taking view over the island. I then decide what I want to do on this day. Sometimes I meet up with friends to go to the beach or on a hike, or I just spend the day lounging around doing a bit of stretching here and there and perhaps getting some work done. Then I usually go down to the village and have some food and drinks with friends or by myself, before I sleep or go to a party (sometimes there are some very good secret parties in the jungle….). I try to spend as many full days and nights on Lamma as possible.

7.     Do you feel particularly productive/unproductive on Lamma?

S: Having a 50-minute each-way commute doesn’t help with productivity, but suitable university housing is very hard to get into, so it seems like the best option.

J: Incredibly productive. The birds basically sing me my research. I just need to listen and type.

8.  Is there any interesting story/adventure on Lamma you want to share?

J: When I moved here in autumn 2018 the typhoon Mangkhut hit Lamma, Hong Kong and the entire region. It was very crazy. I had never experienced so much natural force before. The noise was excruciating and I stayed away from the windows in the centre of my flat for more than 24 hours. When the storm was over, the devastation was incredible. But neighbours got together and helped each other out and we all helped clearing the footpaths, which was very nice.

9.     Would you suggest other people move onto Lamma?

S: It’s not for everyone, but if you don’t get seasick and don’t mind a commute, then it could be for you.

J: Yes, if you are ok with walking uphill and downhill a lot, Lamma is an ideal place to live, relax and meet great people. It is cheaper than Hong Kong Island and the flats and houses are bright, airy and large. It is also much quieter than the city. Most of my friends, when they visit from Hong Kong Island or Kowloon Side, can’t believe how nice it is to be without the sound/smell of cars for a few hours.

10. If there is anything else that you would like to share, please do!

J: Beware of the massive spiders especially in May and June.

Published on: December 27, 2019 < Back >